By Paul LebowitzBill Hokstad flipped his big spinnerbait up against the craggy Punta Banda shoreline, and let it flutter to the shallow bottom. As he rolled it slowly back to the boat something grabbed it and the fight was on. The powerful fish tried to bulldog back into the rocks, but Hokstad, cranking furiously, turned it and pumped it up to the surface. Instead of the big calico bass he was hoping for, he found a toothy 10-pound lingcod clamped onto his spinnerbait. Hokstad, his brother Dave, and Ed Pelissier had trailered Hokstad’s 21-foot Pro-Line center console down from San Diego earlier that morning. They launched the boat at Hotel Coral’s ramp and raced across the Bahia de Todos Santos to the tip of Punta Banda where they found that spinnerbait lingcod. That was only the start of the fun. Later they followed birds to a boil of frothing calico bass, quickly catching two and three-pound checkers one after the other, and then finished off the trip with torrid yellowtail action in the lee of the Islas Todos Santos. Not every trailerboat trip to Ensenada will be as varied and productive as Hokstad’s early September foray south of the border, but it sure illustrates the possibilities. Baja California offers great sportfishing starting just a couple of hours drive of the border, and it’s all within reach of the lucky people who have access to a trailerboat. Jump onto Mexico Highway 1 and steer south. First up are Puerto Salina’s sand bass. Ensenada is just a bit farther down the road, a fine weekend base to hunt yellowtail at Islas Todos Santos or to pry big calico bass from the boiler rocks at Punta Banda. It’s also a good place to start a run offshore for tuna. Continue south to the cool waters off San Quintin, or points even farther south for a taste of tropical action. Taking a boat onto Mexico’s narrow highways is more challenging than trailering up north, but it sure beats the alternative of a series of long, punishing, gas-eating runs deep into Mexican waters. There are other differences down south, including a limited availability of paved launch ramps and high-end fishing tackle, and also some red tape to untangle. Don’t let the hurdles discourage you from enjoying the freedom of fishing from your own boat. With some preparation and the right attitude, a trailerboating trip to Mexico will be a memorable fishing adventure. On the Road On shorter trips you should be able to get by with at least one spare tire each for trailer and tow vehicle, and a set of extra trailer bearings. Flats are a common hazard; consider bringing an extra spare for the trailer and make sure your lug wrench and jack are appropriate for your vehicle. Gas up before you go, but try not to worry too much about the quality of gasoline available down south. It shouldn’t be a problem. In fact, all sorts of roadside services are plentiful in northwestern Baja. There is even a freeway of sorts, although you’ll have to pay for the privilege of driving it. The 4-lane Tijuana-Ensenada toll road will whisk you efficiently to Baja’s major port city. There are three toll plazas each way that charge $2.25 U.S. each; add a dual-axle trailer and you’ll pay double. Like most other Mexican highways, there are often no shoulders. If you break down, you’ll want a full complement of flares and other emergency road markers. South of Ensenada, Mexico Highway 1 is just two narrow lanes. It’s still negotiable by big vehicles. Mexican truck and bus drivers routinely manage it. One key to traveling safely is to leave your American driving habits north of the border. Relax and slow down. Be patient, increase your following distance, don’t take risks, and avoid driving the unlighted highway at night. One feature of the Mexican highway system that can be unnerving for American tourists are the checkpoints. As long as you aren’t doing anything foolishly stupid such as drinking while driving, or carrying illegal drugs or guns and ammunition, you have little to worry about. This brings us to the red tape, the documents you should have readily available when traveling in Mexico (see sidebar). Baja trailerboating veteran Hokstad keeps them all together in a waterproof bag. It speeds him through encounters with Mexican and American officials. Getting On the Water Expect to pay a launch fee of up to $35. A more expensive ramp such as the one at the beautiful Hotel Coral can be a good value if it comes with secured parking, restrooms including showers, a fish cleaning station, a washdown hose, and a fuel dock. Examine the ramp for hazards before launching. At low tide, some ramps drop off abruptly. If a ramp is steep and slippery, approach the water at an angle for more traction, but look out for rocks just off to the side. Bring a tow rope along. If your tow vehicle can’t get enough traction to pull your boat out, a careful assist from a second vehicle might save the day, but please exercise caution. The Fishing The waters from the international border to the tip of Punta Banda just south of Ensenada will look familiar. The fishing here, both in target species and methods, is similar to what we enjoy at home off Southern California. The big change in conditions occurs south of Punta Banda, and it’s not what you might expect. The point marks the beginning of a long zone of upwelling that brings cold waters to the coast. As a result, the fishing here and past San Quintin is more akin to that in Central California than it is to points south. Fishing for rockfish here can be spectacular. It’s a great option when the season is closed back home. Baja has more to offer than fantastic fishing. It would be a shame to travel to exotic Mexico and not do so much as get a taste of the culture. Resist the idea of bringing all of the food and drink you’ll need for your trip. Instead, live off the land. You’ll find charming people, warm hospitality, and delicious meals. These are the experiences that will make your south of the border trailerboating trip an experience to remember. |
BIG BAJA CALICO – Baja trailerboat veteran Bill Hokstad takes his boat south in search of big Baja calico bass, like this near 5-pounder he pulled off a Punta Banda rock.
BOILER BASS – Northern Baja’s Pacific coastline is studded with miles of bass-holding rocks, like this healthy calico caught by Dave Hokstad. Mainland Southern California has just a fraction of Mexico’s fantastic structure, so avid calico hunters often go south.
TODOS SANTOS YELLOW – Taking your own boat down to Mexico let’s you fish it the way you want. Here a Todos Santos yellowtail is about to meet the net for a gentle release.
TRAILERBOAT ‘TAILS – (From left to right) Dave Hokstad, Ed Pelissier, and Bill Hokstad show off a boatload of yellowtail taken on Bill’s 21-foot Pro-Line center console. Bigger trailerboats like Hokstad’s can’t be launched over the beach. Although by U.S. standards Baja’s launch ramps are few, there are still plenty of worthwhile ramps in places like Ensenada, San Quintin, and points south.
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